The
Classic Granny Square Sweater/Granny Tee
By
Hey everyone and
welcome to The Classic Granny Square Sweater/Granny Tee! This top is made up
from 2 granny squares. It is a nice fitting top with no ease around the bust. If
you would like a more oversized top then it is super simple, you just need to
go up one size and that will give you 10cm positive ease around the bust. This pattern
is made to measure so you can use any ply of yarn and hook, although I would
suggest an aran/worsted weight yarn with a 6mm hook. This is what the yarn
yardage is based on. I look forward to seeing everyone’s version of The
Classic Granny Square Sweater/Granny Tee.
Written in US terms Advanced
Beginner
|
Size |
XS |
S |
M |
L |
XL |
2XL |
3XL |
4XL |
5XL |
|
Chest(cm) |
71-76 |
81-86 |
91.5
– 96.5 |
101.5
– 106.5 |
111.5
– 117 |
122
– 127 |
132
– 137 |
142
– 147 |
152
- 158 |
|
Finished Width Circumference (cm) |
74 |
84 |
94.5 |
105.4 |
114 |
124 |
135 |
145 |
156 |
|
Width of 1 Granny square (cm) |
37 |
42 |
47 |
52 |
57 |
57 |
57 |
57 |
57 |
|
Length (cm) |
40 |
44 |
49 |
54 |
59 |
59 |
59 |
59 |
59 |
|
Arm Length (cm) |
43 |
44 |
44.5 |
45.5 |
46 |
46.5 |
46.5 |
48 |
48 |
S- 590m-650yd
M- 740m-810yd
L- 890m-980yd
XL- 1060m-1165yd
2XL- 1150m-1260yd
3XL- 1240m-1360yd
The colours of the sweater are...
333 - Marine Blue
325 - spearmint green
342 - tea rose
347 - pansy purple
350 - bubblegum pink
321 - daffodil yellow
354 - peach orange
Tools
- Crochet Hook to match your yarn.
- Any yarn.
- Stitch markers.
- Tapestry needle for weaving in
ends.
- Tape measure.
- Sharp scissors.
Stitches
Ch(s) – Chain(s)
Dc(s) – Double Crochet(s)
Sk - Skip
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
Slst – Slip Stitch
Sc(s) – Single Crochet(s)
Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Rpt(s)- Repeat(s)
RS – Right Side
WS – Wrong Side
Dc bar – I will refer to a
dc bar which is basically a double crochet but you will be working around the
bar, not in the stitch as it will be on its side.
*……* - Repeat
instructions inside the symbols
[……] – Repeat
instructions inside the symbols
Notes
- Ch3 counts as a stitch.
- Ch1 does not count as a st.
- Turn your work after every row on
the granny squares.
- Weave in ends as you go! Then you
barely notice them.
- Tip - Leave your first centre
tail and then weave all of your ends on that side only. This will then
become the wrong side of your work.
Made to Measure
This top is made to measure. You will need to
take the width of 1 granny square from the size chart above. For
example, size S is around 42cm, keep working up your granny
square and checking the measurement straight across the centre to each edge and
look to see if your measurement is close to this number, give or take a couple
of cms. Once you have reached your desired measurement, head over to next part
of the pattern, where I will explain what to do next.
Right let’s crack on!...
Pattern
If you are
changing colour on a round, turn your work and attach your new yarn in any
corner chsp, skip the instructions for slst into chsp and go straight from the
ch3.
Round 1
Ch3, 2 dc in the loop, ch2, *3dc in the loop,
ch2* rpt this 2 more times, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Pull the loose
tail from the beginning to tighten the centre ring.
Round 2
Turn your work and slst into the corner chsp,
ch3, 2dc in same chsp, *sk 3dc, 3dc – ch2 – 3dc in next corner chsp,* rpt this 2 more times, sk 3 dc,
3dc in the final corner chsp, ch2, slst to top
of ch3 to join.
Round 3
Turn your work and slst into the corner chsp,
ch3, 2dc in same corner chsp, *sk 3dc, 3dc in next gap (in
between the 2 Granny Clusters), sk 3dc, 3dc – ch2 – 3dc
in next corner chsp,* rpt this 2 more times, sk 3 dc, 3dc in next gap, sk
3dc, 3dc in the final corner chsp, ch2, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Round 4
Turn your work and slst into corner chsp, ch3,
2dc in same corner chsp, *sk 3dc, 3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc, 3dc
in next gap, sk 3dc, 3dc – ch2 – 3dc in next corner chsp,* rpt this 2 more
times, sk 3dc, 3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc, 3dc in next gap, sk 3dc, 3dc in
the final corner chsp, ch2, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Round 5
Turn your work and slst into the corner chsp,
ch3, 2dc in same corner chsp, [sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt along the side until you
reach the next corner chsp, 3dc – ch2 – 3dc in next corner chsp] rpt
this 2 more times, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt along the side until
you reach the final corner chsp, 3dc, ch2, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Repeat round
5 until you reach the ‘Width of 1 Granny Square’ measurement from the size
chart on page 1. For example, I made a size small, so I kept repeating round 5
until I was close to 42cm. I say ‘close’ because you may not get that exact measurement,
but as long as you are very close to it, then it will be fine.
Sizes
XS – XL need to skip the next section and go to the neckline shaping section.
Adding Extra Width To Sizes 2XL – 5XL
For Sizes 2XL – 5XL, you will stop making your granny square when you reach 57cm and will instead be adding extra rows on opposite sides of the square as you will need it to be wider but not longer. You will need to add extra width to both squares. Below are the measurements you will add to both sides of the square.
You will need
to make sure you add an even number of rows on each side – not odd. Its
ok if it goes over or under your original measurement slightly.
2XL will add around
2.5cm on each side which should give you about 62cm width in
total
3XL will add around
5cm on each side which should give you about 67cm in width in
total.
4XL will add
around 7.5cm on each side which should give you about 72cm in
width in total.
5XL will add
around 10.5cm on each side which should give you about 78cm in
width in total.
Side Rows For
Sizes 2XL – 5XL Only
Row 1
Attach yarn in any corner chsp (as you have been turning your work after
each round be sure that the last round of your sts are facing away from you) ch3, dc in
same corner chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row,
2 dc in the corner chsp.
Ch3, turn,
sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final
st (top of the ch3 from the previous row).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, dc in same st, sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, 2 dc in the final st (top of the ch3
from the previous row).
Row 4
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until you
reach the measurement for your size. Repeat for the opposite side of the granny
square.
You
will now need to go to the neckline shaping section for sizes 2XL – 5XL only.
Add Neckline Shaping
Sizes XS – XL Only – Front Panel
For the next section you will turn
your granny squares into a front panel and a back panel by adding some shaping
for the neckline.
You will make the front panel first…
You will need your tape measure and
some stitch markers. You will take the measurement below for your size and
measure along both sides of the top edge, placing a stitch marker in the gap
closest to that measurement. Make sure it’s even on both sides.
XS will need to measure around 10.5cm
on each side.
S will need to measure around 13.5cm on
each side.
M will need to measure around 15cm on
each side.
L will need to measure around 17.5cm
on each side.
XL will need to measure around 19.5cm
on each side.
Now you will add rows of the Granny Stitch
along the same place that you have just measured. You will need to keep adding
rows until they reach around 6cm in length.
Row 1
Attach yarn in the
corner chsp (as you have been turning your work after each round be sure that
the last round of your sts are facing away from you) ch3, dc in
same corner chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt until you reach the gap
with the stitch marker in it, 2 dc in the gap with the stitch marker.
Row 2
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, dc in same st, sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, 2 dc in the final st (top of the ch3
from the previous row).
Row 4
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until you
reach around 6cm in length. Repeat for the opposite side of the granny square
but starting row 1 in the gap with the stitch marker and ending in the corner
chsp. Make sure you have the same number of rows each side.
Sizes
XS – XL Only – Back Panel
Next you will add the same number of rows as the front panel, on to the
top edge of the back panel. This time you will just be going straight across
the entire edge.
Row 1
Attach yarn in the
top corner chsp (as you have been turning your work after each round be sure
that the last round of your sts are facing away from you) ch3, dc in
same corner chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row,
2 dc in the corner chsp.
Row 2
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, dc in same st, sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, 2 dc in the final st (top of the ch3
from the previous row).
Row 4
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until you
reach the same number of rows that you added to the front panel.
Sizes 2XL
– 5XL Only – Front Panel
For the next section you will turn
your granny squares into a front panel and a back panel by adding some shaping
for the neckline.
You will
make the front panel first…
You will need your tape measure and
some stitch markers. You will take the measurement below for your size and
measure along both sides of the top edge, placing a stitch marker in the gap
closest to that measurement. Make sure it’s even on both sides.
2xl will need to measure around 21cm on
each side.
3XL will need to measure around 24cm on
each side.
4XL will need to measure around 26cm on
each side.
5XL will need to measure around 28.5cm
on each side.
Row 1
Attach yarn around the first dc bar with a slst (see pic) (as you have been turning your work after each round be sure that the last round of your sts on the centre granny square are facing away from you), ch3, 1dc around same dc bar, sk next dc bar, *3dc around next dc bar, sk next dc bar* repeat until you reach the corner chsp where the original granny square begins, 3dc in that chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt until you reach the st marker, 2dc in same gap as the st marker.
Row 2
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, dc in same st, sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, 2 dc in the final st (top of the ch3
from the previous row).
Row 4
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Keep repeating rows 3 and 4 until you reach around 6cm in length. Repeat for the opposite side of the granny square but starting row 1 in the gap with the stitch marker and ending in the corner chsp. Make sure you have the same number of rows each side.
Sizes 2XL
– 5XL Only – Back Panel
Next you will add the same number of rows as the front panel, on to the
top edge of the back panel. This time you will just be going straight across
the entire edge.
Row 1
Attach yarn around the first dc bar with a slst (as you have been turning your work after each round be sure that the last round of your sts on the centre granny square are facing away from you), ch3, 1dc around same dc bar, sk next dc bar, *3dc around next dc bar, sk next dc bar* repeat until you reach the corner chsp where the original granny square begins, 3dc in that chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt until you reach the dc bars, sk dc bar, *3dc around next dc bar, sk dc bar* rpt until you reach the final dc bar, 2dc around the final dc bar.
Row 2
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, dc in same st, sk 3dc, *3dc in next
gap, sk 3dc* rpt to the end of the row, 2 dc in the final st (top of the ch3
from the previous row).
Row 4
Ch3, turn, sk dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc*
rpt to the end of the row, sk dc, dc in final st (top of the ch3 from the
previous row).
Assembling – All sizes
Stitch counts
written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Next you will assemble the front and back pieces together. This will also
be a good time to check the fit and the armholes.
Place your front panel on top of your back panel so that the RS are both touching
each other. You will be working on the WS of the front panel, then through the RS
of the back whilst seaming.
Take a tape measure and measure down one side from the top 16.5cm (17.5cm,
19cm, 20.5cm, 21.5cm, 23cm,
24cm, 25.5cm, 26.5cm), place a st marker in the gap closest to this measurement (in between
the granny clusters), be sure to go through both panels evenly. Rpt for the
other side.
Now would be a good time to check the fit of your garment.
Place st markers in the top corners of the neck and shoulder, and in the bottom
corners and a couple evenly down both sides. Gently slip the garment over your
head to check the fit and the armhole placement, baring in mind you don’t want
too loose sleeves as there is no positive ease and you don’t want excess
baggage around the armhole.
If you are happy then you can move on to seaming. If you
need to adjust the st markers, then now is a good time to do that. If you feel
the garment is too tight, then you can add extra rows down opposite sides of
the garment to add some extra width. (See 2xl to 5xl adding extra width for
guidance) The seam will also some extra width too as we will be using ch2 to
seam the panels together.
Seaming
You will seam the shoulders together first. Picture
Guidance is below. (Please note the pictures show the second
shoulder seam being made not the first. You will start at the top far right
hand side).
With the front panel WS facing you, attach yarn through the first st with
a slst (front panel only), ch2, drop the front panel and pick up the back panel
(RS should be facing you), attach yarn through the first st with a slst, ch2,
drop the back panel, *pick up the front panel, slst in to the next st, ch2,
drop the front panel and slst through the next st on the back panel* rpt all across
the first shoulder until you reach the final st.
Fasten off.
Then go over to the other shoulder, starting from the neck end rpt the
exact same process as above until you reach the final st. Tip – Its handy to place a st
marker in the 1st st of the back panel so you know you are going in
the right one.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Starting from the
bottom corner, attach your yarn with a slst through the corner chsp of the
front panel only, (or 1st st if you added extra rows at opposite
sides to widen your square), ch2, slst into corner chsp of back panel only,
ch2, *slst into the next st on the front panel, ch2, slst into the next st on
the back panel ch2* Rpt all the way across until you reach the gap with the st
marker, be sure to place the final st in the back panel.
Fasten off.
Rpt for other side
but starting from the st marker and working your way across to the corner chsp.
Be sure to start in the same st that you ended in on the opposite side.
Fasten off and turn
your garment so its RS facing out.
Sleeves
– Granny Tee
Next you will attach your sleeves.
Round 1
With your sweater RS facing you, attach
yarn with a slst around the underarm seam bar, ch3, 2dc around the same seam
bar, *sk 3dc, 3dc in next gap,* rpt until you reach the dc bars (from the
neckline shaping), you will now continue the same pattern but instead of
skipping 3dcs, you will sk a dc bar, rpt this all the way around until you come
back to the original granny square pattern, *3dc in the next gap, sk 3dc* rpt
until you reach the start of the round, slst to top of the ch3 to join.
If using a new colour, turn your work so WS is
facing you and attach new yarn with a slst in the gap where you fastened off
for the previous row.
Ch3, turn, 2dc in same gap, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc,* rpt all the way around, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Once you are happy with your length you will finish off the Tee sleeve
with one round of sc.
Sleeves
– Granny Sweater
Round 1
With your sweater RS facing you, attach
yarn with a slst around the underarm seam bar, ch3, 2dc around the same seam
bar, *sk 3dc, 3dc in next gap,* rpt until you reach the dc bars (from the
neckline shaping), you will now continue the same pattern but instead of
skipping 3dcs, you will sk a dc bar, rpt this all the way around until you come
back to the original granny square pattern, *3dc in the next gap, sk 3dc* rpt
until you reach the start of the round, slst to top of the ch3 to join.
If using a new colour, turn your work so WS is
facing you and attach new yarn with a slst in the gap where you fastened off
for the previous row.
Ch3, turn, 2dc in same gap, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc,* rpt all the way around, slst to top of ch3 to join.
(If you are making it for yourself, then I suggest you keep trying it on until you are happy with the length. Keep in mind there will be an option to cuff your sleeve or leave it as it is).
No cuff
XS – 43CM S – 44CM M – 44.5CM
L – 45.5CM XL – 46CM 2XL – 46.5CM 3XL – 46.5CM 4XL – 48CM
5XL – 48CM
With Cuff
XS – 38CM S – 39CM M – 39.5CM
L – 40.5CM XL – 41CM 2XL – 41.5CM 3XL – 41.5CM 4XL – 43CM
5XL – 43CM
You will measure your sleeve from the underarm and outwards until you reach your desired length.
If you decide that you don’t want to cuff your sleeve, then you will just finish off with 1 round of sc...
Last Round – No Cuff - RS
Ch1, (if necessary, turn your work so RS is facing you), sc in same st,
sc in every st, slst to 1st sc to join.
Cuff
The first round will be a decrease round. How much you decrease is
completely up to you.
This round needs to end on an even number in order to make the ribbing.
Round 1 RS
Ch1, (if necessary, turn your work so RS is facing you), sc in same st, sc2tog, *sc in
next st, sc 2tog,* rpt all the way around, if your last st falls on an odd
number you can either sk it or place 2 sc in the final st, slst to 1st
sc to join. (Stitch count should be an even number)
Round 2 RS
Ch3, dc in next st, dc in every st, slst to
top of ch3 to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
Ch1, fpdc
straight down around ch3 from the previous round, bpdc around the next st,
*fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end (your final
st will be a bpdc), slst to 1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be an even number)
Ch1, fpdc
straight down around 1st st from the previous round, bpdc around the
next st, *fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end
(your final st will be a bpdc), slst to 1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be an even number)
Rpt round 4 as
many times as you wish or aim for the length of the sleeve without a cuff which should
you take you to down to the wrist.
Fasten off and rpt for the other sleeve.
Lay your sweater out flat so the front is facing you.
If you have an odd number of rows that you added to your square for the neckline shaping, then you will attach your yarn around the seam bar in the back left corner.
If you have an
even number of rows that you added to your square for the neckline shaping,
then you will attach your yarn in the 1st st after the seam bar in
the back left corner.
Round 1 - RS
Ch 3, 2dc around same seam bar/st (depending on whether your odd or
even), sk over the next dcs, 3dc in next gap, *sk 3 dc, 3dc in next gap* rpt
until you reach the final gap along the back neckline, (if odd – sk 3dc and
place 3dc around the seam bar, if even – sk over the next dc and place 3dc in
the 1st st before the seam bar), sk over next dc/seam bar, *3dc
around next dc bar, sk next dc bar,* rpt until you reach the first gap on the
front neckline, *3dc in the gap, sk 3dc,* rpt until you reach the last gap on
the front, 3dc in that gap, sk next dc bar, *3dc around next dc bar, sk next dc
bar,* rpt until you reach the beginning of the round, slst to top of ch3 to
join.
Round 2 – RS – FINAL ROUND FOR THE GRANNY TEE
Ch1, sc in
same st, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 5 sts, sc 2tog,* rpt all the
way around, if your last st falls on an odd number you can either sk it or
place 2 sc in the final st, slst to 1st sc to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
If making the Granny
Tee, fasten off and weave in ends. Head over to the Bottom Hem Section.
Ch3, dc in next
st, dc in every st, slst to top of ch3 to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
Round 4 RS
Ch1, fpdc
straight down around ch3 from the previous round, bpdc around the next st, *fpdc
around the next st, bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end (your final st will
be a bpdc), slst to 1st fpdc to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
I fastened off
after this round as I used chunky yarn for my sweater but if you need to add
extra rounds then continue below…
Round 5 RS
Ch1, fpdc
straight down around 1st st from the previous round, bpdc around the
next st, *fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end
(your final st will be a bpdc), slst to 1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be an even number)
Rpt round 5 as
many times as you wish
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Bottom Hem
Next you will turn your sweater/tee upside down so the
bottom is now at the top.
Round 1 – RS –
XS-XL Only
Attach yarn around
any on the corner chsps before the side seam, ch3, 2dc in same chsp, sk over
the seam bar, 3dc in next chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt all the
way across until you reach the next corner chsp, 3dc in chsp, sk seam bar, 3dc
in next chsp, sk 3dc, *3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt all the way across until
you reach the beginning of the round, slst to top of ch3 to join.
Round 2 – RS
- XS–XL Only
Ch1, sc in
same st, sc in next 8sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog,* rpt all the way
around, if your last st falls on an odd number you can either sk it or place 2
sc in the final st, slst to 1st sc to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
If making the Granny Tee, fasten off and weave
in ends. Your Tee is now complete!!!
Round 3 - RS
Ch3, dc in next st, dc in every st, slst to
top of ch3 to join. (Stitch count should be an even
number)
Round 4 RS
Ch1, fpdc straight down around ch3 from the
previous round, bpdc around the next st, *fpdc around the next st, bpdc around
the next st* rpt to the end (your final st will be a bpdc), slst to 1st
fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be an even
number)
Round 5 RS
Ch1, fpdc straight down around 1st
st from the previous round, bpdc around the next st, *fpdc around the next st,
bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end (your final st will be a bpdc), slst to
1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be
an even number)
Rpt round 5 as many times as you wish
Fasten off
and weave in ends. Your Sweater is now complete!!!
2XL
– 5XL
Round 1 – RS
– 2XL-5XL Only
Attach yarn
around 1st dc bar before the side seam, ch3, 2dc around same dc bar,
sk over the seam bar, *3dc around next dc bar, sk next dc bar,* rpt until you
reach the 1st corner chsp of the original granny square.
3dc in corner
chsp, sk 3dc,*3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt all the way across until you reach
the next corner chsp, 3dc in chsp.
*sk next dc
bar, dc around next dc bar,* rpt until you reach the seam bar, sk seam bar,
keep placing 3dcs around the bars and skipping bars in between until you reach
the corner chsp of the original granny square.
3dc in corner
chsp, sk 3dc,*3dc in next gap, sk 3dc* rpt all the way across until you reach the
next corner chsp, 3dc in chsp.
Go back to
working around and skipping dc bars until you reach the beginning of the round,
slst to top of ch3 to join.
Round 2 – RS
- 2XL–5XL Only
Ch1, sc in
same st, sc in next 8sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog,* rpt all the way
around, if your last st falls on an odd number you can either sk it or place 2
sc in the final st, slst to 1st sc to join. (Stitch
count should be an even number)
If making the Granny Tee, fasten off and weave
in ends. Your Tee is now complete!!!
Round 3 - RS
Ch3, dc in next st, dc in every st, slst to
top of ch3 to join. (Stitch count should be an even
number)
Round 4 RS
Ch1, fpdc straight down around ch3 from the previous round, bpdc around the next st, *fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end (your final st will be a bpdc), slst to 1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be an even number)
Round 5 RS
Ch1, fpdc straight down around 1st
st from the previous round, bpdc around the next st, *fpdc around the next st,
bpdc around the next st* rpt to the end (your final st will be a bpdc), slst to
1st fpdc to join. (Stitch count should be
an even number)
Rpt round 5 as many times as you wish
Fasten off
and weave in ends. Your Sweater is now complete!!!
I would love to see your makes! Please
tag me on Instagram @craftandacuppa
This
pattern is not to be copied or resold. Please do not use my pictures. If you sample
any part of my pattern, please give credit where credit is due. You may sell
items that you have made from my patterns as long as you credit me as the designer
Craft and a Cuppa.
