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Hey everyone and welcome to the Summer Pathways Tee. I designed this top as I wanted something to go with my high waisted trousers, shorts and skirts. It also looks nice layered over a tank top. It is written as a crop top, but I will also provide some instructions on how to make it longer if desired. It also has 2 - 4.5cm positive ease.
Written in US terms Advanced Beginner
Tools
- 6mm Hook (or any to obtain gauge)
- Scheepjes Cahlista (or any
similar weight yarn aran/worsted weight)
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Tape measure for assembling
- Sharp scissors
Size | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
Bust(in) | 28-30in | 32-34in | 36-38in | 40-42in | 44-46in | 48-50in | 52-54in | 56-58in | 60-62in |
Positive Ease (cm) | 2.2cm | 2.5cm | 2.8cm | 3.1cm | 3.4cm | 3.75cm | 4.05cm | 4.35cm | 4.68cm |
Armhole Depth(cm) | 17.5cm | 18.5cm | 20cm | 21.5cm | 22.5cm | 24cm | 25cm | 26.5cm | 27.5cm |
Yarn Yardage M/Yd | 347m/ 380yd | 403m/ 440yd | 448m/ 490yd | 540m/ 590yd | 595m/ 650yd | 715m/ 780yd | 770m/ 840yd | 830m/ 905yd | 890m/ 907yd |
Stitches
Ch(s) – Chain(s)
Dc – Double Crochet
Sk st – Skip Stitch
Sk - Skip
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
Chsp(s) – Chain Space(s)
Sl-st – Slip Stitch
Sc – Single Crochet
Sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together
Rpt(s)- Repeat(s)
RS – Right Side
WS – Wrong Side
*……* - Repeat instructions inside the symbols
Notes
·
Ch3 counts as a stitch. It is helpful to place
a stitch marker in the top of the ch3 so you know which stitch to go into when
you come back to it on the next row.
·
I will often refer to dc, ch1, sk st, dc in
next st as a window chsp.
·
The stitch pattern repeats itself after every
3 rows. See below for guide to colour planning (if changing colours)
· If changing colour, I attach the new colour at the end of the previous row right before the colour change. If you decide to change colour every 3 rows then the final stitch would be a dc, so you yarn over and insert your hook into the final stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over with your new colour and pull through the last 2 loops. Then carry on the next row with your new colour. After a while you can go back and pull the two ends tighter (I usually knot them as well) and securely weave in the ends.
Construction and Colour Planning
This top is made up of 2 panels. One front and one back. They both work from the bottom up. The front panel will be where you add your neckline, once you have added the neckline, both front and back panel should be the same length. You will seam them both together at the shoulders and sides under the armhole. The sleeves are then worked straight onto the garment. The stitch pattern repeats itself over 3 rows with one row alternating between fpdc and bpdc. This is where it gets its texture. The row of fpdc is worked on the wrong side which pushes the stitches out onto the front and the row of bpdc are worked on the right side and push the stitches forwards.
The swatch is the same as the pattern.
1st row (at the bottom) is
Dc, Top row is also Dc (which has been pushed forwards by the next row). There
will also be 7 window chsps within the swatch.
Tip –
Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this
makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, fpdc around next st, fpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it) (23sts)
Tip – when
you do the ch 4 at the beginning of the row, place a st marker in the 3rd
chain. This makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next
row.
Rpt row 2
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of
your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when
you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, bpdc around next st, bpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it) (23sts)
Row 7
Rpt row 4
Right, now we have done that lets crack on with the pattern! If you completed the swatch then you will now be familiar with the pattern rpts.
Pattern
St counts are written as xs (s, m, l, xl, 2xl, 3xl,
4xl, 5xl)
Back Panel
You will make the back panel first,
that way you can check the length by holding it from your shoulders and letting
it hang over your chest, as the front and back panel will be the same length
once the neckline has been added to the front panel. If you’re happy with it,
proceed to the front panel. If you want to make it longer, then you can add
extra rows (which are multiples of 3).
Ch and Row 1
Tip – when you start your ch leave a long tail for seams if you wish to use a needle. Do this for both back and front panel (optional)
Loosely ch 57 (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121), place a stitch marker in the last ch that you made, ch 4 more sts then count 2 chs back from where you placed your stitch marker and place a dc in that ch (this will make your first window chsp), *ch1, sk next ch, dc in next ch* rpt to the end 28 window chsps (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)
Row 2
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, *dc in chsp, dc in next st* rpt to end placing the final dc in the 3rd ch from your first window chsp. (Make sure that you have placed a dc in the chsp before you place your final dc in the 3rd ch as it might be easy to miss). 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121)
Row 3
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, fpdc around next st, fpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it) 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121)
Row 4
Tip – when you do the ch 4 at the beginning of the row, place a st marker in the 3rd chain. This makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch4, sk next st, *dc in next st, ch1, sk next st* rpt to the end of the row placing the final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it) 28 window chsps (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)
Row 5
Rpt row 2
Row 6
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, bpdc around next st, bpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it) 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121)
Row 7
Rpt row 4
Rpt rows 2 – 7 until you reach row 24 (24, 24, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 30)
Now would be a good time to hold your back panel up against your chest to see if you are happy with the length. If you wish to go longer then you will need to add on an extra 3 rows/1rpt until you reach your desired length but remember this top is only designed to reach your waistline as it will be too tight on your hips).
Fasten off and weave in ends. (Tip – leave a long tail for seaming if you wish to use a needle).
Front Panel
For the front panel you rpt the same
instructions for the back panel but stop once you have completed row 21 (21, 21, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24).
Do not fasten off unless you are changing colour.
Now you will work the neckline.
If you have made your top longer then for
sizes xs, s, m, l, xl you will need to stop 3 rows
before the end. For sizes 2xl, 3xl, 4xl, 5xl you will need to stop 6 rows before the end.
Row 22
(22, 22, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25)
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, dc in next st, dc in the next 16sts (19, 23, 27, 30, 34, 37, 41, 44). There will be a total of 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46)
Row 23
(23, 23, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26)
Ch3 counts as st.
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, dc in next st, dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it). 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46)
Rpt this last row until you reach row 24 (24, 24, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 30)
If you are following the same length
as the pattern, then the neckline row for sizes xs, s and m will start on the
RS, for sizes l, xl, 2xl, 3xl, 4xl, 5xl your neckline row will start on the WS.
Next you will do the same for the
other side. You will need to go back to the first row of the neckline and count
across the row from the next st. (see pic above).
Row 22
(22, 22, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25)
Ch3 counts as a st.
Starting from the next st you will need to count 21sts across the row (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29). This will be the centre of the neckline. (It might help to place a st marker in the final st that you have counted).
In the next st attach your yarn with a slst, ch3, dc in the next st, dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with a st marker in it). 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46)
Row 23
(23, 23, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26)
Ch3 counts as st.
Tip – Place a st marker in the top of your ch3 at the beginning of the row, this makes it much easier to find when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch3, turn, dc in next st, dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it). 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46)
Rpt this last row until you reach row 24 (24, 24, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 30)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Assembling
Now you can seam these two sections using your preferred method. If you left a long tail, then you can use a needle to go through both loops on both panels. Another method that I use quite often is a slst. Using your hook attach your yarn with a slst at the beginning of the section that needs seaming, continue to place a slst through each st until you reach the end. Fasten off and repeat for the other side.
Neckline
Notes - For the
neckline you will attach the yarn in one of the top back corners. You will then
place a sc2tog in each of the 4 corners and sc’s in between.
Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
With your top RS facing out attach
yarn with a slst around the dc bar on the back right corner (see pic above)
ch1, sc2tog so you will be joining the sts either side of the corner, sc in each
st along the back neckline placing a sc2tog in the final st and across the
corner (the 2nd part of the sc2tog will go around the dc bar).
Now we are on the dc bars and will be going
down the left side. You will place 2 scs around each dc bar. As you have just
completed a sc2tog, the 1st dc bar will only need one more sc.
Going down the left side evenly place 4sc (4, 4, 4, 4, 10, 10, 10, 10), sc2tog (which will be the dc bar and the next sc on the front of the neckline), sc in every st along the front neckline until you reach the final st, place a sc2tog in the final st and the dc bar of the right side of the neckline, evenly place 4sc (4, 4, 4, 4, 10, 10, 10, 10) along the right side and join to the 1st sc with a slst. 54sts (58, 58, 58, 62, 74, 78, 78, 82). Fasten off and weave in ends.
Notes – For the sleeves you will need to place 2scs around every dc bar. Don’t worry if you have more or less sts than what is written on the pattern as really it comes down to where you have placed your seam. Just make sure you have 2 scs around each dc bar.
Row 1
Ch1 does not count as a st.
With your top RS facing you, attach yarn at underarm with a slst, ch1, sc in same st, place 2 scs around each dc bar, continue you do this all around the sleeve, join with a slst to 1st sc. 44 sts (46, 48, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62) or there abouts.
Row 2 – The Frill
Do not turn your work. Keep your top facing
RS out.
Ch3 counts as a st.
Ch3, dc, in same st, *2dc in next st* rpt to the end (I placed an extra dc in the same st as my ch3 to close the gap) join with a slst to top of the ch3. 89sts (93, 97, 105, 109, 113, 117, 121, 125). Again, no need to worry if your st count is slightly different to this one.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rpt rows 1 to 2 for the other sleeve.
Bottom of the body
Notes – Now you will attach your yarn at the bottom of the body and work a couple of rows.
Row 1
Ch1 does not count as at.
Attach yarn at one of the side seams with a slst (go through the top of the ch3), ch1, sc in same st, *sc in next chsp, sc in next st* until you reach the next side seam, be sure to place in a sc in each dc/ch3 at the side seam, *sc in next chsp, sc in next st* rpt until you reach the side seam, place a sc in final st and join with a slst to 1st sc. 114sts (130, 146, 162, 178, 194, 210, 226, 242).
Row 2
Do not turn your work. Keep your top
RS facing out.
Ch3 counts as a st.
Ch3, dc in next st, dc in every st around the row, join with a slst to the top of the ch3. 114sts (130, 146, 162, 178, 194, 210, 226, 242).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
For the last part of the pattern, you
will make a large ch for the drawstring. I have not written a specific
measurement for this part as it depends on where your top finishes on your
body.
Make a large ch, keep chaining and
placing around your body where your top sits until you are happy with the length,
and you can tie it in a secure bow. I made a cropped tee in a size small and
ended up using a ch of 50.
Now all you need to do is find the centre of
your top and weave your chain around the last row of window chsps so that each
side of the drawstring meets in the middle.
Tassels
1.
Cut 7 pieces of yarn 7” long. (it doesn’t have
to be 7 pieces; it can be less. I used 7 strands for my rainbow top to include all
the colours.)
2. Place them all together and fold them in half
to create a loop in the middle.
5. Carefully pull the loops through the last ch making sure each piece of yarn goes through.
6. Take your hook out and gently widen the loop with your thumb and forefinger. Then pull the tassel ends through the loop.
7. Pull each strand tight to neaten up your tassel. Trim ends with sharp scissors. Rpt for the
other tassel.
Now you should have yourself a gorgeous little
summer tee!
I would like to say a massive thank you to all of my amazing testers! I have loved seeing all your versions of the Summer Pathways Tee and appreciate each and everyone of you for taking the time out to help me with this pattern. You can find all of my testers on Instagram……..
Jessica M @fiberfatale
Tori @hypknotical
Josie W @jojobeenn
Cezarina @ihrielle
Shirley-Ann Streep @saffie_creative
Sanjhi Agarwal @tinsyvinsy
@hookedonyarnbydulce
@marlinzcreations
@megs._.benny
@crochettebycollette
Justine May Sison Laurian @jstnmxy
Erika Daisy Apostol @aizens_strings
I would love to see your makes! Please tag me on Instagram @craftandacuppa using the hashtag #summerpathwaystee
This pattern is not to be copied or
resold. Please do not use my pictures.
You may sell items that you have made
from my patterns as long as you credit me as the designer. Craft and a Cuppa.
You can purchase the ad free version of The Summer Pathways Tee from Ravelry, Etsy or Lovecrafts using the links below.
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