Written in US terms Advanced
Beginner
|
Size |
XS |
S |
M |
L |
XL |
2XL |
3XL |
4XL |
5XL |
|
Chest(cm) |
71-76 |
81-86 |
91.5
– 96.5 |
101.5
– 106.5 |
111.5
– 117 |
122
– 127 |
132
– 137 |
142
– 147 |
152
- 158 |
|
Finished Width Circumference (cm) |
94 |
104 |
114.5 |
124.5 |
134 |
144 |
155 |
165 |
176 |
|
Length (cm) |
42 |
43 |
43 |
44.5 |
44.5 |
45.5 |
45.5 |
47 |
47 |
|
Armhole (cm) |
19.5 |
20.5 |
22 |
23.5 |
24.5 |
26 |
27 |
28.5 |
29.5 |
|
Yarn yardage Est. This is based on
aran/worsted weight only. |
263m 288yd |
298m 324yd |
325m 355yd |
362m 396yd |
389m 425yd |
425m 465yd |
456m 499yd |
500m 547yd |
582m 532yd |
Please note the yarn yardage is estimated using the measurements I have provided.
Tools
- Crochet Hook to match your yarn,
(I used 6.5mm)
- Any yarn, (I used Scheepjes Cahlista.)
- Stitch markers.
- Tapestry needle for weaving in
ends.
- Tape measure.
- Sharp scissors.
Stitches
Ch(s) – Chain(s)
Tc(s) – Treble Crochet(s)
Sk - Skip
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Slst – Slip Stitch
Sc(s) – Single Crochet(s)
Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Hdc – Half double
crochet
Rpt(s)- Repeat(s)
RS – Right Side
WS – Wrong Side
Tc bar – I will refer to a
tc bar which is basically referring to a treble crochet but you will be working
around the bar, not in the stitch as it will be on its side.
*……* - Repeat
instructions inside the symbols
[……] – Repeat instructions inside the symbols
- Ch2, ch4 and ch5 counts as a stitch.
- Ch1 does not count as a st.
- Weave in ends as you go! Then you
barely notice them.
- You can decide which side is the wrong
side of your top and which side is the right side! I chose to have my
right side with my row of trebles facing me.
Back Panel
Where necessary sizes will be written as XS (S, M, L, XL,
2XL,
3XL,
4XL,
5XL)
You will make a chain that is
as long as the length provided below. It will need to be an even number. Write
your number of chs down as you will need it for the front panel and to keep
count of your sts throughout both panels.
Row 1 is a row of hdc, so if
you prefer you can do a foundation hdc row instead and then skip to row 2. If
you do a foundation row, it will need to end on an odd number.
Row 1
Ch an extra 2 sts (this will class as your first hdc), sk over the 2 chs that you just created and place a hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc in every ch. You should end up with an odd number of sts, be sure to count the 1st two chs as an hdc.
Row 2
Ch 5, turn, sk next st, *tc in next st, ch1, sk next st* rpt all the way across the row until you reach the final st which will be the ch2 from the previous row, be sure to place your final tc in the top of the ch2.
Row 3
Ch4, turn, tc in chsp, *tc in next st, tc in next chsp* rpt all the way across the row, place your final tc in the very last st which will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Keep repeating rows 2 and 3 until you are close to the measurement listed below. I say close because these are tall stitches so you may not get the exact measurement. You also need the 2nd from last row to be the straight tc row with no chs in-between. The final row will be a row of hdc.
If you are making this for yourself then you can make it as long as you wish, or you can use the measurements that I provided below
42cm (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47)
Once you have reached this measurement, or are happy with your length, and the last row that you completed was the straight tc row with no chs in-between, then move on to the final row of the back panel.
Final Row
Ch2, turn, hdc in next st, hdc in every st along the row, be sure to place your final st in the top of the ch4 from the previous row.
Fasten off.
Front Panel
You will now make the front panel exactly the
same as the back panel, but it will be slightly shorter in order to make room
for the neckline shaping. The front panel’ final row before adding the neck
shaping needs to be a straight row of tcs with no chs in-between.
Take your back panel and measure down 8cm from
the top. Find the row closest to that measurement that is the row of just tcs.
This will become the final row of the front panel before neckline shaping. Make
a note of the row number as that is how many rows you will make for the first
part of the front panel.
Use the back panel instructions to make the
first part of your front panel.
Tip – When creating your ch right at the
beginning, be sure to line it up with your original ch from the back panel to
make sure they are both the same width. Its so easy to change tension for this
part so you need make sure that they are both the same width.
Once you have reached the final row of the
front panel you will now move on to the neckline shaping.
Neckline Shaping
Lay your front panel out flat, and using the
measurements below, measure from the left side of the top row into the centre
and place a st marker in this st. Now you will need to count the stitches from
the left corner to the st marker. There needs to be an odd number of sts, so if
it falls on an even number, remove the st marker and place in the next st
furthest away from the centre.
15.5cm (18, 20, 22.5, 24.5, 27, 29, 31, 33.5)
Rpt for the opposite side making sure both
sides have the same amount of sts – odd number.
Row 1
Continuing on from the previous row, ch5, turn, sk next st, *tc in next
st, ch1, sk next st* rpt until you reach the st marker, place the final tc in
the same st as the st marker.
Row 2
Ch4, turn, tc in chsp, *tc in next st, tc in
next chsp* rpt all the way across the row, place your final tc in the very last
st which will be the 4th ch of the ch5 from the previous row.
Row 3 (if needed)
Ch 5, turn, sk next st, *tc in next st, ch1,
sk next st* rpt all the way across the row until you reach the final st which
will be the 4th ch from the ch5 on the previous row, be sure to place your final tc in the
top of the 4th ch.
Keep repeating rows 2 and 3 until you have the same number
of rows as the back panel. (Minus the final hdc row)
Final row
Ch2, turn, hdc in next st, hdc in every st
along the row, be sure to place your final st in the top of the ch4 from the
previous row.
Now you will repeat these instructions for the other side
but you will start in the same st as the st marker for the opposite side of
your neck shaping.
Assembling
Now you
will need to get the back and front panel ready for assembling. Lay the back
panel flat down with RS facing up. Next lay down the front panel on top of the
back panel with the WS facing up making sure your neckline is at the top. The
right sides should be touching each other.
Take your tape measure and measure down each
side from the top…
19.5cm (20.5, 22,
23.5, 24.5, 26, 27,
28.5, 29.5)
Place a st marker at the measurement, rpt for the other side. This will
become the armholes.
Next you will seam shoulders together with your preferred seaming method. I
chose to use my hook and slip stitch through both sts on the front and back
panel. Make sure you go through the top of the turning chs at either the
beginning or end of the previous row.
Fasten off.
Lay your pieces side by side and using a
needle go through the top loops of the seam bars, starting on the left side
first, then going over to the right, then back to the left and so on until you
reach the st marker.
Fasten off and rpt for the opposite side.
Now you will need to turn your top the right
way out!
Neckline –
Optional
You can add a row of
sc around the neckline if you wish. Lay your top down with the front facing you
(RS out) and attach your yarn at the shoulder seam on the left of the garment.
Row 1
Attach yarn with a
slst, ch1, sc2tog (seam and 1st st along the back neckline) sc in
every st along the back until you reach the final st before the next shoulder
seam, sc2tog (last st and shoulder seam), *place 3 sc around the next tc bar*
rpt until you reach the last tc bar, place 2 sc around the last tc bar, sc2tog
(around tc bar and the 1st st on the front of the neckline), sc in
every st along the front until you reach the final st, sc2tog (final front st
and around the tc bar) place 2 more scs around the tc bar, *place 3 sc around
the next tc bar* rpt until you reach the final tc bar, slst to top of 1st
sc2tog to join.
If you would like
to add more to your neckline then you can do as many rows of sc as you wish.
Fasten off and weave
in ends.
Fringe – Optional
If desired, you can
add fringe around your sleeves.
I would suggest
using 6-8 strands of yarn for your fringe, cut at roughly 34cm.
Place them
all together and fold them in half to create a loop in the middle.
Place your hook through the space where you would like to add
fringe. I would suggest going through the top seam first, then skipping a tc
bar and going around the next one. This way if you feel you want to add more
fringe, you can fill in the gaps, rather than doing it all at once and feeling
like you have added too much! It’s easier to add than take away.
Take your yarn and put the middle loop that you created over the
top of your hook.
Carefully pull
the loops through the bottom of the tc bar making sure each piece of yarn goes
through.
Take your hook out and gently widen the loop with your thumb and forefinger. Then pull the tassel ends through the loop.
Pull each strand
tight to neaten up your fringe. Trim ends with sharp scissors. Rpt all around
and for the opposite sleeve.
Well done! Its finished! You can now shimmy your shoulders get that fringe swinging! A handy tip is to use hair straighteners on a low setting to make your fringe poker straight!
I would
love to see your makes! Please tag me on Instagram @craftandacuppa using the
hashtag #thesupersimplebohotop.
This
pattern is not to be copied or resold. Please do not use my pictures. If you sample
any part of my pattern, please give credit where credit is due. You may sell
items that you have made from my patterns as long as you credit me as the
designer Craft and a Cuppa.
